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This page is dedicated to Maria

If I could only visit one city for the rest of my life, it would be the Eternal City, Rome. It’s not just that Italy’s capital is enchanting, compelling and hypnotically beautiful.

 

It’s also the world’s biggest and most fascinating outdoor and indoor interactive museum. The city is a giant archaeology park with almost 3000 years worth of history on display: much of it incredibly well preserved.

 

There are so many amazing and unforgettable things to see, it’s hard to know where to start.  Put simply, Rome is an adrenalin rush for all the senses. The only problem with visiting the city is having to leave it.

 

Getting There

 

Bernini's Fontana de Quattro Fiumi in Piazza Navona - Click for map

Bernini's Fontana de Quattro Fiumi in Piazza Navona

Rome is around 2 hours from the UK and is served by two international airports. Fiumicino, or Leonardo da Vinci, is about 18 miles southwest of the city and is mainly used by the national carriers.

 

The fastest way to get to the centre is the Leonardo Express train, which leaves every 30 minutes, takes 31 minutes non-stop to Termini station northeast of the centre (map), and tickets (biglietti) cost €10.

 

There is also the Metropolitan FM1 train, which leaves every 15 to 30 minutes, stops at several stations - but not Termini - and costs €5.

 

The journey to Roma Ostia station, south of the centre, and the best hop-off point for the sights, takes around 25 minutes.

 

The SIT shuttle bus to Piazza Cavour (map) and Termini station leaves every 30 to 60 minutes depending on the time of day, costs €8, and takes 50 to 60 minutes depending on traffic.

 

There is a fixed-fare of €40 to the city centre, and visa versa, for a licensed Rome taxi but always confirm this with the driver before you get in. The journey takes about 45 minutes.

 

Ciampino airport is 10 miles southeast of the centre and is the main hub for budget carriers and charter flights.

 

Santa Birgitta Church in Piazza Farnese - Click for map

Santa Birgitta Church in Piazza Farnese

The SIT shuttle bus to Termini station leaves every 30 to 60 minutes depending on the time of day, and costs €6. Terravision buses to Termini run to a similar timetable and cost €8. Buses take 50 to 60 minutes depending on traffic.

 

You can also get a bus to the Anagnina Line A station and pick up the metro. It’s the cheapest way to get the centre - about €3 in total - but more hassle and the combined journey time can be over an hour.

 

Terravision tickets have to bought in the terminal or online, tickets for the other buses can be bought from the driver.

 

A taxi to anywhere within the Aurelian Walls should cost a fixed-price €40, and visa versa, for a licensed Rome taxi but always confirm this with the driver before you get in. The journey takes about 45 minutes.

 

National and budget carriers fly to Rome from all over the UK but the best options for day trippers are probably the following flights to from Gatwick/Heathrow to Fiumicino, and Stansted to Ciampino: arrival times are in brackets and all times are local.

 

Airport

Airline

Out - am

Return - pm

Gatwick

Easyjet

6:50 (10:20)

21:20 (22:55)

Stansted

Ryanair

6:10 (9:45)

22:05 (23:45)

Heathrow

BA

7:00 (10:40)

20:25 (22:00)

 

Victor Emmanuel Monument - nicknamed the typewriter building

Victor Emmanuel Monument - nicknamed the typewriter building

 

Eco-friendly travel - to find out how you can make your travel carbon neutral visit CarbonNeutral or ClimateCare.

 

If you'd like more information on getting to Rome, take a look at our booking and travel planning section.

 

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Sightseeing

 

Most of Rome’s historical and cultural attractions are inside the Aurelian walls (270-82 AD) but these still encircle quite a large area to get around on foot.

 

And some sights, such as the Colosseum and the Sistine Chapel, are at opposite ends of the city. If your time is limited you might want to restrict yourself to specific areas in the centre.

 

If you need to make the most efficient use of your time, taxis are probably the fastest way to get to opposite parts of town, and are relatively inexpensive. Most journeys around the centre will cost €6 to €10.

 

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel - the not so famous end - Click for map

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel - the not so famous end

The two-line metro system is fairly limited and not particularly useful for sightseeing, although it does stop at a few key attractions. Buses and trams are far more useful than the metro and there are plenty of them.

 

Single journey BIT tickets are valid for 75 minutes and can be used for one metro ride and unlimited bus and tram changes.

 

Tickets must be bought before you travel and stamped or validated at the start of your journey in the orange or yellow machines. Tickets are available from stations, bars, tobacconists and news kiosks for just €1.

 

One-day BIG travel cards give you unlimited metro, tram and bus travel in the Comune di Roma zone and cost €4 and the three-day version, a BTI card, is €11. For more information click here.

 

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What To Visit

 

The Colosseum is one of the most impressive and evocative sights in Rome despite repeated earthquake damage, hundreds of years of neglect and having its fabric systematically plundered for other buildings including parts of St. Peter’s and several bridges.

 

This vast amphitheatre was finished in 80 AD and may have got its name from the colossal bronze statue of Nero that was build next to it in the second century AD.

 

The Colosseum from the Forum end

The Colosseum - an icon of ancient and modern Rome

 

In its heyday over 50,000 spectators gathered to watch people and animals kill each other, and maybe have a bit of a chinwag and some crisps in the interval.

 

It’s rumoured that one Emperor was toying with the idea of stand-up comedy nights, but in the end decided not to mess with a winning formula. Map

 

To avoid queues at the ticket office arrive early, buy your ticket at the Palatine ticket office, which is just round the corner from the Arch of Constantine and doesn’t get anywhere near as busy, or book in advance online. The Palatine entry fee includes the Colosseum and visa versa.

 

Just to the side of the Colosseum is the impressive, but fenced off, triumphal Arch of Constantine. It’s 70ft high and 85ft wide and celebrates the drubbing Constantine gave the larger army of Maxentius in the battle of Milvian Bridge in 312 AD.

 

The Arch of Constantine next to the Colosseum

The Triumphal Arch of Constantine next to the Colosseum

 

The Colosseum and Arch of Constantine stand at the head of one of the most remarkable archeological sites in the world; the Imperial Fora and the Roman Forum.

Unfortunately, Mussolini decided it would be a good idea to build a four-lane highway down the middle, cutting the two sites in half.

 

One can only imagine how much more spectacular this area was before this modern-day act of urban planning vandalism. If you want to take in everything in this general area leave yourself at least a day.

 

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Imperial Fora - key attractions include Nero’s labyrinthine, and now underground, Golden Palace; Trajan’s markets, probably the world’s first purpose-built shopping and office complex; and the Forums of Nerva, Julius Caesar and Augustus. Map

 

The Roman Forum was once the heart of ancient Rome, and despite the ruinous state of its temples and basilicas, it’s still an impressive sight - for a panoramic view click here.

 

The Temples of Saturn and Vespasian in the Forum

The Temples of Saturn and Vespasian in the Forum

 

Highlights include the Septimus Severus and Titus triumphal arches at each end of the Forum; the Antoninus and Faustina, and Romulus temples; the vast Basilica of Constantine and Maxentius; and the Curia. Map

 

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The best way to appreciate the scale of the Forum is to view it from the Capitoline Hill, at the side of Palazzo Senatorio.

 

The Palatine Hill above the Forum is where, according to legend, the history of Rome began with Romulus and Remus and their wolf friend.

 

It’s home to some of the oldest archaeological remains in the city including what’s left of some Iron-Age huts, and is a must-see part of the Forum.

 

The 2nd-Century Temple of Hercules in the Foro Boario

The 2nd-Century Temple of Hercules in the Foro Boario

 

Musei Capitoline - the Capitoline Hill was the heart of the ancient city and is worth visiting for its views of the Forum and Michelangelo’s Piazza del Campidoglio.

 

Either side of his magnificent square are the two former palaces that are now the Capitoline Museum, and which house some of the city’s most prized artifacts.

 

It’s predominantly sculpture and bronzes but there are also mosaics, frescos and paintings, including works by Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Van Dyck and Pietro da Cortona. Map

 

Vatican City is the world’s smallest sovereign state and the HQ of the Catholic Church - for virtual tours click here.

 

St. Peter's Church in Piazza San Pietro

St. Peter's Church in Piazza San Pietro/St. Peter's Square

 

You could easily spend a day exploring the site of St Peter’s martyrdom and burial, but the main attractions are St. Peters’ Basilica, the lavish former papal palaces, which are now home to the Vatican museums and their unparalleled collections, and the Sistine chapel. Map

 

You can also visit the roof of St Peter’s and enjoy its stunning views of the city - to see if it's worth the climb click here.

 

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Castel Sant’Angelo - this vast and imposing rotunda fortress started life as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian but was converted into a stronghold in the sixth century AD.

In 1277 a passageway was built between the Vatican and the castle so that it could be a papal bolthole in times of political turmoil and general horribleness. The terrace provides excellent views over the city. Map

The Pantheon - one of the marvels of ancient Rome, this stunning building dating from 125 BC has survived more or less intact because it was given to Pope Boniface IV in 608 AD and consecrated as a church.

The Pantheon in Piazza della Rotunda Rome

The imposing portico columns of the Pantheon

The imposing portico - dedicated to Marcus Agrippa, who built the original temple on the site in 27 BC - hides a vast dome with the same height and diameter, 43.2m.

It’s the largest masonry dome in Europe and at its centre is a 8.23m diameter oculus or large hole, which lets in light and the elements.

Rain can create a waterfall effect inside the building and indoor snow flurries if you’re lucky enough to be in Rome when it’s snowing. Map

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Galleria Borghese - this museum and gallery is housed in Villa Borghese on the edge of its former grounds and now a public park.

 

Often described as one of the best small museums in the world, it houses several of Bernini’s best sculptures together with important paintings by Caravaggio, Titian and Raphael, and works by artists such as Cranach, Rubens, Correggio, Paolo Veronese, Lorenzo Lotto and Canova. Map

 

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna in Villa Borghese park

 

At the opposite end of the park there are two other museums: Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna and Museo Nationale Etrusco di Villa Guilia. Map

 

Museo Nazionale Romano is spread over three sites - Palazzos Massimo and Altemps, and the Diocletian Baths - that are home to one of the world’s most important and extensive archaeological collections. The exhibits include frescos, mosaics, sculptures, ancient coins and precious artifacts.

 

San Giovanni in Laterano is the site of Rome’s first Christian basilica. It’s the city’s official cathedral and the former papal residence and HQ of the Catholic Church before Vatican City and St Peter’s Basilica - for virtual tours click here.

 

The church has been rebuilt several times, and although the present structure dates back to 1589, it retains the shape of the original forth-century church.

 

As you might expect it’s spectacular inside and out, and boasts the world’s first baptistery: the blueprint for all that followed. Map

 

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Santa Maria Maggiore in the Esquiline district of the city - Click for map

Santa Maria Maggiore in the Esquiline district

Santa Maria Maggiore on the Esquiline Hill dates back to the fifth century and is a mix of architectural styles including Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque.

 

The relatively understated façade belies the eye-popping marble and mosaic interior and gilded coffered ceiling.

It is one of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas along with St Peter’s, San Giovanni in Laterano and the only one of the four outside the Aurelian walls - San Paulo fuori le mura. Map

 

Santa Maria del Popolo - this fifteen-century church next to the city’s northern gate on the edge of Piazza del Popolo is crammed full of treasures by some of the world’s most important Renaissance and Baroque artists.

 

Highlights include works by Caravaggio, Raphael, Bernini, Pinturicchio and Bramante; and there’s a beautiful stained-glass window by Marcillat. Map

 

San Clemente - the striking twelfth-century interior behind an unassuming façade is only the first surprise of this wonderful church.

 

Underneath the street level basilica are the remains of a fourth-century church and below that, buildings that date back to the ancient city including a temple dedicated to the Persian god, Mithras.

 

Other key sights include the beautiful apse mosaic, eleventh-century frescos and the Capella di Santa Caterina. Map

 

Trinita Dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps - Click for map

Trinita Dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna - so-called because of the nearby Spanish Embassy - is a favourite meeting place and hangout for a bit of posing and enjoying la dolce vita.

 

It’s at its best in spring when the azaleas bloom and transform the steps into the perfect photo opportunity with a riot of colour. Map

 

The Trevi Fountain is the biggest and - thanks to Anita Ekburg in the film La Dolce Vita - the most famous fountain in the city.

 

It was started in 1732, took 30 years to complete, and never ceases to surprise and delight first-time visitors with its scale and beauty.

 

It’s a great place to watch the world go by and the never-ending scrum of people trying to photograph loved ones in front of it.

 

If you don’t like crowds try an early morning visit, or go late evening when it’s floodlit and often deserted. Toss a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, they say, and you’re sure to return to the city. Map

 

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Ostia Antica - about 30 minutes out of the city by train are the remains of what used to be Rome’s main commercial port until malaria and the gradual silting up of the harbour forced its inhabitants to begin abandoning the town in the fourth century.

 

This evocative site and its well-preserved buildings retain every aspect of a thriving Roman town including temples, shops and offices, apartment blocks and houses, a theatre, basilica and the Forum.

 

The Roman theatre at Ostia Antica

The Roman theatre at Ostia Antica - still in use today

 

Although not as extensive or impressive as Pompeii or Herculaneum, it gives a real flavour of what it was like to live in an ancient Roman city. The return train journey costs €2 and you’ll need at least 3 or 4 hours to do the site justice. Map

 

While you’re there, it’s well worth taking a look at the stunning and intact 15-century castle built by Pope Julius II: it’s one of only two in Italy built with this style of triangular design. The fortress is opposite the main entrance to the archaeological site and is open to the public and free.

 

The castle sits on the edge of a small medieval village, which is also worth a visit, especially if you’re hungry, because here you’ll find a wonderful ristorante called Cipriani.

 

Castello Giulio II at Ostia Antica

Castello Giulio II at Ostia Antica

 

Unassuming and easy to miss from the outside, Ristorante Cipriani is unexpectedly spacious on the inside and has a friendly, relaxed and homely atmosphere.

 

It serves up excellent, fresh and varied Roman cuisine at very reasonable prices and the house wines - served in a range of carafe sizes - are exceptional value for money.

 

In addition to an excellent standard menu there are plenty of daily specials to make choosing even more difficult. It gets very busy in the evenings, when it’s filled with locals, so booking is advisable. Map

 

If you want to find an address that’s not listed on this page, click here.

 

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The Vatican Museums - magnolia wasn't an option

The Vatican Museums - magnolia wasn't an option

 

Eating

 

Like any big city, Rome offers cuisine from around the world but if you’re just visiting it would probably be a missed opportunity if you wasted a meal on something you could easily get at home.

 

With so much amazing Italian food on offer, including a number of wonderful local specialties and wines, you’d have to be in Rome for an awfully long time to get bored with eating Italian. The dialling code for Rome is 00 39 - tips and service charges.

 

Lilli - this large, budget-price trattoria near the river and Piazza Navona opened in 1964 with the aim of serving traditional, simple and value-for-money Roman food, which it’s still doing today. Map

 

There’s an outside terrace and because it’s in a quiet cul-de-sac you don’t have to worry about traffic disturbing the experience.

 

Porta Pia - designed by Michelangelo - Click for map

Porta Pia - designed by Michelangelo

L’Antica Birreria Peroni - you don’t have to be a beer lover to eat and drink at this basic and budget beer hall at 19 Via di San Marcello. The simple but delicious food has Roman and Teutonic influences and the house wines are very good value. It’s a favourite with local businessmen at lunchtime, and gets crowded and lively - 066795310. Map

 

Al 34 - for somewhere in the heart of the city’s main designer shopping district, this long-established restaurant is surprisingly easy on the wallet, as well as very handy for the Spanish Steps. A good budget Italian restaurant with plenty of atmosphere. Map

 

La Focaccia is a budget pizzeria and ristorante near Piazza Navona that does very good thin-crust pizzas and inexpensive house wines, but there’s plenty on the menu if you don’t fancy a pizza.

 

The outside terrace has the Santa Maria della Pace as a backdrop and is great for people watching - 11 Via della Pace - 0668803312. Map

 

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Da Giovanni - on the other side of the bridge from Castel Sant’Angelo is this cosy budget-price taverna that's family run and very welcoming. It serves simple and tasty traditional Italian food including some excellent antipasto.

While you’re eating you can spend some time identifying the famous faces in the murals that decorate the place. 58 Via Banco S Spirito - 066864116. Map

 

The Trevi Fountain - Rome's biggest and most famous fountain

The Trevi Fountain - Rome's biggest and most famous fountain

 

Colline Emiliane - tucked away down a quiet side street near Piazza Barberini is a family-run ristorante that specializes in classic Bolognese cuisine and serves some of the best pasta and cured meats in the city. The house wines are good value and they do a superb Zabaglione. Budget to mid-price. Map

 

Terra di Siena is a short walk from Piazza Navona and offers good Tuscan cooking with ingredients sourced from producers around Siena. The atmosphere is welcoming and relaxed, and there’s an outside terrace. Budget to mid-price. Map

 

Baia Chia - if you’re in the vicinity of Santa Maria Maggiore and fancy some good seafood this Sardinian ristorante is a good bet. They also do some delicious cheeses and cured meats, and wonderful antipasto. Budget to mid-price. Map

 

Osteria dell’Ingegno - this modern wine bar and trattoria is a hop, skip and a stone’s throw from the Pantheon and a great place for a casual drink or a romantic meal.

 

The stunning interior of San Giovanni in Laterano - Click for map

The opulent interior of San Giovanni in Laterano

The food is delicious and inventive, and service is relaxed and friendly. The outside tables overlook the massive columns of Hadrian’s temple. Mid-price and up. 45 Piazza di Pietra - 066780662. Map

 

Da Giggetto is a wonderful Roman-Jewish restaurant with two outside terraces and a very impressive setting, the Portico d’Ottavia. Specialties include fried artichokes (carciofi), dry-salted cod (baccala) and the extremely moreish courgette flowers filled with cheese and anchovy (fiore di zucca). Mid-price and up. Map

 

Vecchia Roma is a city institution with a long history and provides fine dining in elegant and historic surroundings. Superb food, excellent service and an extensive wine list make this restaurant perfect for special occasions. Expensive but well worth it. The only credit cards accepted are Amex and Diners. Map

Cipriani - if you're planning a visit to Ostia Antica this wonderful restaurant is well worth a visit. It serves up excellent, fresh and varied Roman cuisine at very reasonable prices. See the section on Ostia Antica above for more information. Map

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Practical Info

 

Rome is generally a safe city, but you should be careful in quiet and poorly lit streets at night, especially around Termini station.

 

Violent crime is quite rare but the area around Termini after dark would probably be a good starting point if you wanted to find some.

 

Fountain Of Neptune in Piazza Navona - Click for map

Fountain Of Neptune in Piazza Navona

However, Rome does have a significant problem with pickpockets, who are often dressed as gypsies and work many of the tourist hotspots, and crowded metro and bus routes.

 

Be particularly careful on number 64 and 40 buses: these are not called the pickpocket expresses for nothing.

 

Don’t flash money in public or leave valuables unattended or exposed: especially in bars, cafés and restaurants with outside seating areas.

 

Also watch out for flocks of small children swarming round you and shoving crumpled bits of cardboard with handwritten messages in your face.

 

They may look harmless enough but they can strip you of your valuables faster than a shoal of angry piranhas can go through fillet steak.

 

August is not a good time to visit the city because it’s normally ridiculously hot, and lots of shops, restaurants and bars are closed as the locals disappear on holiday for a month.

 

Like other parts of Italy, some of the main attractions are closed on Mondays, so check opening times to avoid disappointment.

 

Public transport tickets must be validated at the start of your journey by stamping them in the yellow or orange ticket machines. Although a single ticket - valid for 75 minutes - can be used for unlimited travel on buses and trams, it can only be used for one metro journey.

 

OstiaAnticaMosaics.JPG

Mosiacs from the Baths of Neptune at Ostia Antica

 

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All major credit cards are widely accepted throughout the city, and there are plenty of ATMs and places to change money. The currency is the Euro; to find out how many there are to the pound, click here.

 

Tips and service charges - if service is included, servizio incluso, it’s normal practice to leave a few euros for the waiter.

 

Where service is not included, an optional tip of 10 to 15% is normal, depending on how you rated the food and service.

 

Taxi drivers won’t expect a tip for journeys around the city but it’s customary to tip around 10% of the metered fare.

 

Local time and other useful information.

 

Airlines frown on over-sized carry-on luggage

Always check that carry-on luggage will fit in the overhead lockers

 

Learning the language - if you'd like to brush up on your Italian, or you'd just like to learn some basic phrases, you might find these sites useful.

 

BBC Languages - multimedia courses for beginners and the more advanced.

 

Fodors - a range of useful phrases with audio and written pronunciation guides.

 

Ielanguages - basic to more advanced Italian with pronunciation guides.

 

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